Tutorial: How I Make Coconut Oil Kitchen Soap From Scratch
Something that you may not know about me is that I am a soaper (soap maker). I have been making soap for over 15 years.
I started at the end of 1999 when we were all wondering what would happen with the clock turned over to 2000… At that time we stock piled a few things and I learned to make soap, almost poisoned myself, but survived and am hear to tell about.
I now make unscented soap from all natural ingredients. I would like to show you through this tutorial how I make coconut oil kitchen soap from scratch.
Making Kitchen Soap
What is kitchen soap? Kitchen soap is a soap that is formulated to be stronger with more left over lye than soap made for skin care, so that it can be effective for cleaning dishes and other kitchen surfaces.
This soap formula has been super fatted 6 percent but is 100% Coconut Oil Soap which makes it quite drying. It is not formulated to be used to wash your skin with. You may find that you will need to use kitchen gloves to prevent you hands from burning, drying or possibly cracking when using this kitchen soap.
Keep kitchen soap away from eyes and other sensitive places, if gotten in eyes, flush eyes with water and seek medical care if irritation persists.
First Time Soap Makers
If you have never made bar soap before you will need to read the Bar Soap Making Tutorial before making your first batch of soap.
The Bar Soap Making Tutorial covers precautions and safety measures that you will need to consider before making your first batch of Lye Soap. If you do not have the time or patience to read through the tutorial and apply what it says, you should probably leave soap making to someone else.
Read The Tutorial & Directions
These directions assume that you know what you are doing, you have read the Bar Soap Making Tutorial several times, have scoped out the area you will be making soap in (making sure you have a safe unobstructed area), children and pets have been looked after and are safely out of the area, that you have already gathered equipment, supplies, are using safety gear when appropriate, and have vinegar handy in case of lye spills.
Also, you should read through the directions below several times before starting to make this soap.
The mold can be anything except glass, that can hold liquids, preferably sturdy plastic or wood.
When using sturdy plastic you may not need to line it, so long as it can be put into the freezer to harden the molded soap enough to let it separate from the sides of the mold when pressed on, like when removing an ice cube. If you are not sure, you can line the plastic mold with plastic wrap after painting the mold with a layer of petroleum jelly.
A Wood soap mold will need to be lined with freezer paper after painting it with petroleum jelly…
Here is a nice Silicone mold with a wood box to hold its shape, and no need to line it.
Lining The Mold
I have a template for cutting the freezer paper to line my mold. I am not going to go into making a template, but it is not hard to do, you can make one from sturdy paper or plastic.
The first step is cutting the freezer paper to fit my mold. I cut corner to corner and follow the outline of the template, then I fold it to match the corners of my mold.
The Lined Mold
Your lined mold should look something like this… I got lazy this time and did not get it in there as nicely as I have in the past… but it still worked.
Measuring The Distilled Water
We always weigh ingredients when making soap, but water is different you can measure water instead of weighing it if you like, but oil, fat and lye must be weighed, for the lye to oil ratio to be right. Just to keep things simple and as accurate as possible, I weigh everything…
Soap Making Bucket
I use a clearly marked 3-gallon plastic pail to make soap in, I start by adding the weighed distilled water…
Weigh The Lye
When the lye has been weighed I pour it into the soap making bucket that already has the distilled water. This can be done outside or inside with windows open and exhaust fans running. If doing the mixing outside the fumes do not get in the house, make sure you do not have any children or pets outside that could dump the lye water or get injured from it..
I like to use Essential Depot’s food grade lye, when making soap…
Once you add the lye to the water it needs to be carefully stirred, then covered with the lid that comes with the bucket so that you do not loose to much water by evaporation. Do not forget to use safety gear when handling lye. You should be wearing goggles, gloves, face mask, long pants, long sleeve shirts, shoes and socks. Also keep reading glasses close by in case you need them.
Weigh Coconut Oil
While the Lye Water is cooling, weigh your oil,,, I weigh the coconut oil in the same pot that I use to melt it in… Once the oil is in the pot, put the pot on the stove and turn the burner on low, let it melt. I use Wilderness Family Expeller Pressed Organic Coconut Oil , I love this coconut oil for soap making…
Mix The Lye Water & Melted Oils
After your oils are melted, stir the lye water to make sure all the crystals have dissolved, when dissolved bring the bucket inside and put into the sink, I like to use the sink in case anything spills. You should still be using safety gear; goggles, gloves, mask, long pants, long sleeve shirts, shoes and socks.
Traced Soap Slurry
Now mix your soap slurry until it reaches trace. Trace is the term that soap makers use when soap has become pudding like and is ready to be poured into a mold. Below you can see the tracings on the surface of the soap slurry, now quite pudding like and ready to be poured into the mold. This is a heavy trace making a thick batter, it does not have to be quite this thick. But needs to be traceable. You should still be using safety gear; goggles, gloves, mask, long pants, long sleeve shirts, shoes and socks.
Molded Soap Slurry
This is our traced soap slurry in the mold, it was thick enough to leave some designs on the surface… At this point I like to put my molded soap into an oven with the pilot light on to keep it warm. It needs to stay warm as long as possible it helps to fully saponify all the oils, and also help it go through a gel stage. I usually leave it in the oven over night… I have an electric oven not sure if a gas oven would be safe or not.
Clean It Up
Now is a good time to clean your mess. I clean up with paper towels and soap. The wipe every thing with vinegar to stop any corrosive action of the soap slurry and lye water that might have gotten on your surfaces. Never put raw soap in your drain it can solidify and plug your drain.
The Soap Log
Isn’t it beautiful, well it will be once the freezer paper is removed…
I have a really nice slicer for cutting soap logs into bars, but this recipe was so hard that I was nervous forcing the guitar strings through the soap, so I removed the soap log after just a little scoring to cut the bars by hand… I wanted to mention the holes and crevices in the soap, the batter was pretty thick, the holes are from the air pockets that I did not get out… If I had poured it a little sooner and thinner there would not be any holes.
The soap was not as hard as I thought at first, and the knife sliced through them very easily, and the scoring really helped to make uniform bars.
Bars Ready To Cure
After the bars are cut and put in a safe place they are ready to be cured. You need to let your soap set undisturbed in a cool dry location for 4 – 6 weeks. Curing allows time for the bars to dry out, making them longer lasting and milder.
Using lye to make soap can be hazardous, before making soap for the first time, be sure you are aware of the safety precautions necessary to protect yourself and your Housemates, be especially mindful of Children and Pets. Here is the link to our Bar Soap Making Tutorial, proceed at your own risk.
Let Me Know What You Think
I would love to hear what you think about Making Handmade Soap – Supplies, please leave me a comment or question below… Thank you for visiting. 🙂
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